New York Fashion Week F/W 2012: Forever Young

Held in the only American city of the four major fashion capitals, New York Fashion Week oozes a distinctive new world vibe that is completely its own. Although it boasts of veteran designers like Donna Karan, Oscar de la Renta and Calvin Klein (who continue to work their magic), it is The Big Apple’s ability to produce and nurture progressive, innovative young design talents that is the secret to its dynamic and vibrant fashion industry. While they may not have the rich, impressive heritage of the European fashion houses, New York’s young labels make up for that with daring creativity, modern visions and unbridled enthusiasm for forging the new and yet-to-be.

If the future is indeed bright, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler and The Row will probably be leading the way.

RODARTE

When it comes to the new, few are as good as the Mulleavy sisters at delighting the jaded fashion crowed with a different point of view. The Rodarte collections, often inspired by anti-urban settings (e.g. Northern California’s Muir Woods), brought a fresh perspective to hyper-cosmopolitan New York. With the Australian Outback as their starting point, their Fall/Winter 2012 showing is a treasure trove of city-friendly looks that still retains their signature eccentric dreaminess.

PROENZA SCHOULER

With 2012 marking their 10th year in the business, Proenza Schouler is technically not that young anymore. Yet, they continue to possess that rare superpower of always being right on the pulse of cool, thus making them demi-gods to legions of style-conscious young fans who feel that the wonder duo are reading their minds. In other words, they understand youth – and what it desires. You never quite know what Proenza Schouler will come up with each season, but you know it will be good. For Fall/Winter 2012, they plugged into tough girl mode with urban warrior staples, only with a twist (e.g. boxy, oversized biker jackets). To spice it up even more, they added a dose of Orientalism, which not surprisingly, they have made more hip than kitsch.

THE ROW

It seems that Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen are destined to become poster girls for whatever they choose to apply their talents to – in this case, celebrities-turn-fashion designers. Advocating an elegant and simple aesthetic that focuses on the fit, cut and construction of the garments, The Row is the high fashion equivalent of a Scandinavian furniture. Carving out a niche for themselves with their emphasis on using only the finest, most luxurious materials, they created a new, intriguing minimalist-maximalist style. Sticking to these principles in Fall/Winter 2012, they created a collection of clean, uncomplicated silhouettes, soothing neutral colours and sensual details. If you calculated based on cost per wear, these timeless pieces are quite a bargain.

Trend Focus: A Good Sport

Anoraks, hoodies, sweat-shirt and track-pants – what were once the gym rat’s staples have been making regular appearances on the runways of high fashion and they look set to become the uniform of the young and hip. If you are thinking of the saggy jersey pants or shapeless t-shirts that one is often found in on the threadmill (and thus associated with unattractive sweat stains), you cannot be more wrong. The current sportswear trend has been building up for many seasons now and in Spring/Summer 2012, it manifested in various interesting ways, from casual luxe to contemporary evening. There is nothing scruffy about these looks. In fact, in many cases, they are decidedly elegant.

Compared to the pyjamas or paisley trends, sportswear is undoubtedly much more wearable. Relative to the dressier options that came down the runway this season, it is also the fashion equivalent of comfort food; accessible and familiar. But to bring it to high fashion levels, the designers have added a large dollop of chic to these former homewear pieces. By refining silhouettes, playing with proportions and including clever details, they managed to distill sportswear into its essence and present a modernised version of it, where it is at its most stylish. The result is a new breed of urban athleticism that is appealing even to those of us who have never set foot in a gym.

Other than the usual sportswear proponents, such as Alexander Wang, designers who were previously less inclined towards the laid-back charms of sportswear have also been dipping their fingers into this increasingly popular trend. The ever ladylike Victoria Beckham gave the humble hooded jacket a luxurious spin while Stella McCartney worked her usual cool girl magic by combining an abundance of mesh with a quirky asymmetry. And then there is Alber Elbaz of Lanvin, who gave sportswear an unexpected sophistication with his beautifully made silky track-pants.

The ‘beautiful game’ takes on a whole new meaning.

Stella McCartney / Victoria Beckham

Rag & Bone / Alexander Wang

Vera Wang / Pringle of Scotland

Lanvin / Kenzo

[Pictures: Vogue UK]

Menswear Fall 2012: Sticking to Classics

Fashion is no longer just for the ladies – the men have been in the game for quite some time now (and playing it with much gusto). While menswear is undoubtedly more restricted design-wise relative to womenswear, it does not mean that it need be any less interesting. In fact, it is the ability to innovate within a smaller box that make brilliant menswear designers stand out that much more. If the womenswear collections seek to dazzle with their endless variety of colours, shapes and textures, one needs a keener eye to appreciate men’s clothing. The devil is in the details and it is the tiny things (e.g. collar, buttons, cuffs) that will make all the difference. And let’s not forget the all-important fit, cut and proportion.

Menswear trends have become increasing adventurous over the years and for Fall 2012, there is no lack of flamboyance (floral suits at Versace) or intrigue (elongated, dress-like silhouettes at Ann Demeulemeester). While these collections certainly got their due attention, the brands that decided to stick to the classics also made their quiet presence felt by sending out timeless looks that still managed to look smart and contemporary. Shoemaker Berluti’s debut ready-to-wear collection is beautifully wrought while Jil Sander’s all-leather outfits and sharp suits exudes a urbane cool that is part Blade and part Wall Street. And can any menswear season be complete without the impeccable magnificence that is Dior Homme?

It is all very well to inject a bit of fun into your wardrobe with a bright orange suit but at the end of the day, it is the tailored charcoal one that will become a cherished favourite.

BERLUTI

JIL SANDER

DIOR HOMME

LANVIN

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Couture Spring 2012: Light

With only a handful of haute couture houses still standing, the couture season is a much less hectic affair when compared to the ready-to-wear fashion circus. However, fewer looks do not necessarily mean lesser work. Each couture piece is painstakingly put together by an army of seamstresses and may take hundreds of man-hours to complete. The exquisite results of this dedication to craft often look more like works of art than mere clothes. Even as we spin towards disposable fast fashion, this kind of beauty will never really go out of style.

For Spring 2012, many of the couture houses have converged on a delightful trend (that is, if trends can exist in the world of couture) – lightness. Typically elaborate and almost always extravagant, couture is usually associated with the heavy formality of eveningwear. Yet, this season’s soft, ethereal dresses seem to float as they made their way down the runway. Sheer, delicate fabrics create a dreamy sense of weightlessness despite the intricate handiwork of embroidery, beads and sequins on them. At the risk of sounding banal, see-through may very well be the new black this season.

By merging a timeless elegance (reminiscent of haute couture’s golden age) with a decidedly modern sensuality, the couturiers are gradually but steadily walking into the 21st century. While it is uncertain if they will succeed in ensuring that their craft remains relevant, one thing is for sure: we will be seeing quite a number of this season’s couture on the Oscar’s red carpet at the end of the month!

ELIE SAAB

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

CHRISTIAN DIOR

VALENTINO

VERSACE

Trend Focus: Best Of Spring/Summer 12

At FashionSpace.com, the rule of thumb is New Year, New Style. Thanks to the eternal summer on our little red dot, there is no need for us to wait until next April to enjoy the Spring/Summer 2012 looks that came off the runway a couple of months ago. We believe in instant gratification and there is no time like now to break out new trends. There are so much fashion goodness this season that it was tough condensing it to just three top picks, but we hardened our hearts and here are what we love best!

Dessert shades inspired by delicious sweet treats are the go-to palette of the season. Layer these candy pastels for a fresh take on colour-blocking or wear them with bold primaries for a arresting contrast.

Animal prints take on new meaning as we move away from animal skin to animal motifs. Sparrows, bunnies and cats, the animal kingdom is still a hot theme in fashion, only much tamer and more adorable than ever. Keep the silhouette and details sophisticated and grown-up to prevent your outfit from becoming too child-like.

Decadent and fabulously fun, we are thrilled that the Roaring Twenties are making a return on the runways. Iconic elements like the dropped waist and soft, flowing shapes have been spotted in many a collection, but with a sleek, 21st century update. Go easy on the accessories and let the leisurely, fluid clothes do the talking.

 

P.S. Look out for our up-coming Look of The Day posts as we show how to put together outfits inspired by these Spring/Summer 2012 trends!

Trend Focus: Clutch Mentality

Small, boxy clutches have been punching above their weight in the bags department for the past few seasons and they are still going strong. A fabulous accessory for both night and day, they help to keep your load light by giving you only enough space for keys, cards, phone and maybe a tube of lipstick.

(Photo: Jak & Jil)

For cocktail parties and black tie events, go with a hard, structured one like the Givenchy Mini Miniaudiere Clutch. For a less formal day look, pick more softly shaped and casual options, such as the Proenza Schouler PS11 Calfskin Clutch or Mulberry’s Lily Chain Two Tone Clutch. Vintage clutches are well-worth a mention for their often beautiful hardware; best of all, they are usually one of a kind. Interesting details (e.g. unique closures) and functional add-ons (e.g. a detachable shoulder or wrist straps) are also things you should be looking out for.The nifty mini clutch is the next best thing to being hands-free!

Trend Focus: Red Lips


[Tom Ford Beauty; YSL SS12. Pictures from Into The Gloss.]

It may not be the easiest thing to carry off, but there is little doubt that red lipstick is a timeless classic and every woman should have (at least) one in her make-up case. Glamourous, sultry and incredibly sexy, bold crimson lips are the anti-thesis to that au natural nude look that defines beauty right now. However, you can bring the two extremes together by keeping the face fresh and clean while letting the lips do the talking (pun intended). Add a sleek of eyeliner and multiple coats of mascara for a stronger night look.

Blogger Ms Glitzy made a handy tutorial to show you exactly how to achieve this alluring red lips look. To make red lips more wearable and less of a statement, keep a neutral palette on the rest of the face and pick a matt lipstick.

[Ms Glitzy will be showing us her 5 of her favourite things this Friday, so watch this space!]

Shopping for the right red lipstick (there is one out there for everyone!) can be a long, laborious affair (much like searching for a soulmate – lots of trial, error and often, disappointment), but that does not mean that you should give up!

Tip: invest in the more expensive, luxurious brands because more often than not, the richness of the pigment counts for a lot.

Suit Up


Ever since Yves Saint Laurent’sground-breaking Le Smoking suit became a powerful icon of female empowerment and modern sensuality, the tuxedo has ceased to belong just to the men. Pioneering a liberating androgyny that has allow women to literally ‘wear the pants’, it was an instant classic that ushered the tuxedo into the wardrobes of many a stylish femme in the decades thatfollowed.

While a full tuxedo suit may be unsuitable for everyday wear, one can always channel its spirit through some clever accessorizing. Whether it is smartening up with a quirky ceramic bow-tie, going dandy with suspenders or skipping the heels for a pair of beautiful oxfords, these nifty add-ons are a great way to inject an interesting masculine touch to your ensembles.

Remember, a little can go a long way!
1.  Stella McCartney Tailored Tuxedo Wool Cloth Jacket
2.  Drakes London Classic Width Braces
3.  Cor Sine Labe Doli Shiny Ceramic Bow Tie
4.  Delfina Delettrez Metal Collar
5.  Neil Barrett Pleated Silk Tie
6. Alexander Wang Tuxedo Oxfords 

Earn Your Stripes

Earn Your Stripes
Everyone needs a Breton striped top in their wardrobe, and we really do mean everyone. This French-chic staple is casual comfort at its most effortlessly stylish. Besides, if it is good enough for Audrey Hepburn, it is definitely good enough for us! To give it a more dressed-up, contemporary look, skip the jeans and pair it with red cigarette pants instead. Add a pair of killer platform pumps and you will blend right into the Paris Fashion Week crowd! [Tip: Throwing on a pair of over-sized sunglasses will earn you extra style points.] 

On The Streets Of Paris

Every season, fashion reaches a crescendo in Paris – not that we like to play favourites, but its no secret that the best shows are in the City of Lights. With Paris Fashion Week kicking off yesterday, we will like to show some love for this beautiful city in the coming week by putting together a Paris Je T’Aime magazine that is inspired by everything Parisian. 
For a start, we (virtually) trawled the streets of Paris, picked out this simple, fuss-free but very chic summer look and broke it down to find out why it works so well. To find out how to get your hands on some of these fabulous items, click on them on the magazine and you may just be able to buy them right away!